Build Detail



Build - Detailed Stage Breakdown

  • What are the largest water tanks that can be fitted to the right underside of van 

General

Link to complete specs on 2017 - search for LWB EL, High Roof
Lighting specs are on page 43
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2017/2017_Transit_-_Specs.pdf

Layout specifications are in this PDF - Cargo van on page 22
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2017/2017_Transit_v1-0.pdf

1) REMOVE EXISTING PANELS AND FLOOR


Label all existing plastic panels in cargo area with masking tape placed in the bottom right of each panel. Numbering to be done like reading a news paper Starting in the upper left as column one and then reading to the bottom of the page before going to column #2
  • For Example Number #1 is the upper left panel behind the passenger seat
  • Number #2 is the one below it
  • #3 is below that, if there is none then go back up to the roof.
  • Count all panels for example 6 on tight, 3 on back wall and 8 on left wall.
  • Remove all paneling and store in shop to use as templates when needed or for sale
Do not remove floor until you are ready to lay a new floor or want to expose the metal

2)  METAL WORK
  • Rustproof all cuts into the metal 
  •  Window Cutouts for two windows-
    Window Cutouts for two windows - behind the driver and passenger
    The only full size window glass I can find is
    http://www.vanwindowsdirect.com/van-windows-store/index.php?rt=index/home
  • NEW INFO - The driver side rear corner should be OK to take rubber cover off for venting.
  • Create two floor vents for make up air.
    https:
    //www.youtube.com/watch?v=awMAX7JZ0BE
  • Here are some pictures http://cargovanconversion.com/8018/floor-vents-revisited
  • Location 1 is behind the driver side door pillar
  • Location 2 should be just in front of the rear wheel well so as to provide ventilation to the back of the fridge
  • Both will need to have metal mesh screen attached by pie clamp over them from underneath.
    The screen needs to be strong enough to not allow a rodent to chew through. Nylon won't work.
  • A plumbing pipe can be used to attach the dryer hose and the screen under the floor.
        This is the setup one person used - shown from the underside
              • Create a pass through at the back left corner of the van so that water and 30 amp shore power can be brought up into the van. This will hide all connections and protect them from the weather. This will have a screw top or a Kohler K-11352 Disposal flange ring for floor
              • Amazon Part  https://goo.gl/RL2LY8

              • Weld Flat Metal reinforcing for Cabinet/Panel Bed Install
              • Roof Cutouts (1 vent fans)
              • Roof Rack parts installed
              • Chassis water fresh water tank - size up to 20 gallons
              • Chassis grey water holding tank mounting - around 10 gallons
              • Chassis water fresh water tank size up to 20 gallons
              • Chassis grey water holding tank mounting - size around 10 gallons
              • Rustproof all cuts into the metal
              Is there a local Undercoater?

                3) INSULATION

                This is very important to me and must be done right. Various areas of this can be done at different times but these are the materials I want to use.
                 Install Details
                • Add Thinsulite to walls and cieling
                • Do the wiring
                • Cover with Low-E mylar like Floor
                • Expandable foam for very hard to get places
                • Two Floor Vents - cut hole for makeup air.
                Floor Insulation
                • Took up the black vinyl floor and laid it upside down in my garage.
                • Ripped off all of the flock from the vinyl
                • Purchased work bench foam at Harbor Freight ($9 for pack of 5) and needed only three of them
                • Cut this into various strips and filled in all the low spots in the floor in between the raised ribs
                • Glued this in place with Stinger fabric spray, which works better than the 3M 90 spray
                • Use the pieces themselves to only get the glue into the valleys
                • Laid the vinyl back down

                4) ELECTRICAL PRE-WIRE 

                Electrical Use - 100 ah per day - 200ah capacity

                Additions
                Proximity and lane drift
                Alarm
                Upgrade stereo - amp speakers
                Rear View Screen bigger

                 

                http://cargovanconversion.com/power-storage
                • a. Wire to fan - rear position between 14" frames
                • b. Wire for HVAC and for Solar if added later to roof
                • c. Wire (8) LED lights in overhead
                • d. Wire for (4) power outlet 12v plugs in back of van (2)
                  and (1) at corner of sink facing forward and (1) at sofa facing forward
                • e. Wire for power awning
                • f. Wire for AC outlets as follows
                  AC1 - Fridge
                  AC2 - Extra Outlet on bottom of fridge cabinet
                  AC3 - Extra Outlet on forward side of Sink Base
                  AC4 - Microwave
                • g. Inverter placed in fridge cabinet
                • h. 30 Amp hookup and shore power in back left of van accessed through a port hole in the floor
                • i. Battery box with two batteries under chassis near rear axle
                • j. Wiring for radiant floor heat
                • k. Rear Speakers re-mounted to top panel
                • L. Sub Woofer wired - location tbd 
                • m. Alarm System pre-wired
                • Fix the 12 volt plugs which time out in 30 minutes 
                • Security horn honking for no reason (I disconnected the horn) - need to locate and switch the horn
                •  
                • Question
                • Can we put 3 prong male connector under drivers door.

                4B) Plumbing

                • Centrifugal water pump Less cost, no noise, smaller. With bypass to protect pump.


                5) INSTALL WALLS CEILING AND FLOOR INSTALLATION

                • Ceiling to be white
                • Radiant floor heating and thermostat
                • Install all wood trim pieces in designated areas 
                • Install Shore Power(Shore Power should be ran under the van with proper weather sealants and insulation) 
                  6) INSTALL WALL CABINETS (2 total - built of 1/2" marine plywood to finish with varnish)

                  • Note there are lots of places to bolt cabinets to the walls. 14 tapped 8mm holes in the cargo walls and there are many plain holes that are the correct size for 1/4-20NC pre-bulbed inserts.
                  •  Cabinets are to be two total - one over bench and one over the door

                  7) FLOOR CABINETS (4 total - built of 1/2" marine plywood to finish with varnish)
                  • Back platform bed with storage underneath - 87" (+/-) long and full width (approx. 69").
                    There will need to be a separator to hold items
                    A a set of 3 drawers no deeper than 26" to be constructed. From back door to ack of drawers there needs to be 60" for Mtn Bikes.
                    Drawers to have knobs that lock them closed.
                    Example Knobs - need 6 - two per drawer
                    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FFERN0U?psc=1
                  • 22"deep x 18" wide (+/-) floor to ceiling cabinet for fridge - This must be open to the rear to allow the windsurfers to slide forward into this area. This gives a total of 100" from rear door.
                  • 49" wide bench with storage underneath seat (lift up seat to show storage)
                    and an oval opening in the seat back to allow for more storage
                  • 40" (+/-) wide sink base to begin at platform and end before step into side of van - This must be open to the rear to allow the windsurfer sails to slide forward into this area. This gives a total of 100" from rear door.
                  8) INSTALLATION of EQUIPMENT
                  • RML8330 8-SERIES REFRIGERATOR
                    depth 23 1/2 " x height 50 14/16 " x 16 1/2"
                  • Solar Panels on roof (if there is time) Electrical Parts to Install

                    RML8330 8-SERIES REFRIGERATOR depth 23 1/2 "  x height 50 14/16 " x 16 1/2 " Other Fridge depth 22 5/16 " x height 32 5/16 " x width 20 9/16 "
                    1. HEATING
                      Look into floor radiant heating.
                      Electrowarmth brand. 12voltsplus.com $75.00 I use the 36" x 60".

                      side door post.
                      You can get wiring past the structural vertical post just past sliding door.
                    2.  SOLAR
                      Not sure if I have the optional rear 12 volt plug is on passenger side door post.
                      You can get wiring past the structural vertical post just past sliding door.

                    9) Misc

                    LIGHTING NOTES


                    There is supposed to be a 3 position switch on the overhead light above the dash: off, on with door open (off after delay) and always on.
                     Interior LED lights do turn off with the sliding door open after about 20 minutes. Interior auto on lights need to have a bypass switch so they do NOT turn on when a door is opened UNLESS the bypass switch is off - I added one of these to my E350 van easily.
                    The auto off in 20 minutes is fine as long as the other LED lights added does not have this feature.
                    That page is p. 71/467 in this PDF:

                    http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Fo...US_10_2014.pdf

                    More info on the 3 position switch.
                    The center light control switch has 0, center (std), and 1 positions. It guess this is the A/B/C. Starting with running engine, then turn off engine. In 0 position, the center map light does not turn on but cargo lights do turn on. In center position the map light and cargo lights turn on. In the 1 position the map light turns on any time. Note, there are left and right map lights on separate button switches (may have been an option) outboard of central light referenced above. Back to cargo lights. The cargo lights come on when doors unlock (getting into van) or when engine is shut down no matter what the setting of the center map light/console switch. Locking the doors via the door interior switch (still sitting in seat, if it should it make a difference) does not turn off cargo lights. Hitting the door lock on the Key turns off the cargo lights within 1 second.
                    sounds like we are going to need that in-line kill switch

                    Is there a module that electronically controls the LED lighting without running wires everywhere? Is there a LED light that I can turn on by pressing it?


                    Electrical Notes 

                    Not sure if I have the optional rear 12 volt plug is on passenger side door post.
                    You can get wiring past the structural vertical post just past sliding door.

                    User


                    Up to a 250 watt Alternator is available - check my alternator power - it is either 150 or 210 May be able to add a second battery under seat. See this link http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/ford-transit-general-discussion/25754-battery-box-converting-using-dual-batteries.html

                    Rack Notes and interior notes

                    Van rack - can it be installed after interior is installed?
                    From this post - I have summarized the important parts
                    http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/accessories-add-ons/3378-roof-rack.html 

                    Use Teflon Plumbing tape on the bolts
                      1. The tapped holes for the roof rack are located inside the rib channel and are not accessible to add a lock nut. 
                      2. There are four additional roof holes plugged with plastic plugs. 4 just forward of the rear doors and two more further forward. These are not located over a roof rib. TIP - Use an exact or sharp utility knife to carefully cut along the paint line at the bottom of the dome all the way around. The other oblong domes to the right or left of the rib centerlines I believe are in-ports for any upfitter wires such as for lights or solar panels.
                    3. There are two additional tie down loops on the high roof just forward of the rear wheel wells. All loops except the ones over wheel wells are 1 1/2" above the top corrugation of the steel floor. 4. Looks like the two din holes on shelf above the dashboard could be removed. -. Rear windows are the same size for medium and high roof. - Two rear radio speakers are located in rear doors and low - need to be raised - The top corrugation on roof is slightly wider than 14" to allow 14" roof vent cut out. Detailed measurements for roof holes Only the holes on the roof ribs are threaded. These are about 27" from the van centerline (54" between holes).
                    The other 6 are rectangular with plastic plugs. Did not measure hole size. Approx. 3/8" wide x 5/8" long? FYI roof rib and hole locations on 148" not extended van measuring toward front of van from inside face of the rear door post: Face of door jam = 0" First not rib hole = 4 1/4" ( 26" from van centerline) Roof rib # 4 at 10 1/4" Roof rib # 3 at 31 3/16" Roof rib # 2 at 70 3/16" Second not rib plastic plugged hole at 91 7/16" ( 26" from van centerline) Roof rib # 1 at 99 3/16" Did not measure the other two plugged holes in roof near back doors. No plugged holes on van centerline at the back doors. The plugged holes could be enlarged for electrical fittings.

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